How to distinguish the common fabrics of clothes and what kind of fabric is considered a good fabric?

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The basics of fabric

  • Fabrics are mainly divided into: non-textile fabrics and textile fabrics From another dimension, they are divided into natural fabrics and non-natural fabrics. From a finer dimension:

Natural

  1. plant fiber, such as: cotton, hemp, fruit fiber
  2. animal fiber, such as: wool, free wool, silk
  3. mineral fiber, such as: asbestos

Non-natural

  1. recycled fibers, such as: viscose, vinyl, Tencel, modal, Lysol, bamboo fiber, etc.
  2. synthetic fibers, such as: nylon, polyester, acrylic, spandex, Lycra, etc.
  3. inorganic fibers, such as: glass fiber, metal fibers, etc.
  • From the textile process:
  1. Woven: stable fabric structure, no elasticity (except for the addition of elastic fabric), flat, solid and durable, the appearance of brace, loose volume, simply put, is not close to the body, hanging bad scratch can not be seen. There is a loose amount, simply put, is not close to the body, hanging bad scraping can not be seen
  2. Knitting: fabric is rich in elasticity, cloth feel soft, comfortable and comfortable, breathable, easy to disperse. Simply put, the more through the larger. Hanging bad a pull a hole.

Personal opinion of the grade is: (do not distinguish the printing and dyeing process)

  1. Low-level fabrics: ordinary chemical fiber
  2. Ordinary fabrics: general cotton, linen.
  3. Intermediate fabrics: Lycra, Tencel and other intermediate chemical fiber fabrics and natural and blended, crushed silk, long-staple cotton, ordinary leather, etc
  4. High-grade fabrics: wool, mulberry silk, (fabric), calfskin, lambskin and other high-quality leather, fox fur and other common fur
  5. Top fabrics: sheep (camel), heavy weight mulberry silk fabric, precious leather, mink and other senior furs
  • personal summary of the shortcomings of some common fabrics fabrics.
    Cotton: ordinary long-staple cotton below, many times after washing will become hard
  1. Color cotton: only brown green two colors
  2. Hemp: not wrinkle-resistant, easy to fade, easy to shrink mold
  3. Ordinary silk: easy to shrink, not acid-resistant, refusing to sun
  4. Wool (velvet: easy to insects.
  5. Artificial cotton: easy to stick to the body
  6. Modal: easy to pilling, wrinkled
  7. Tencel: harden in hot and humid environment
  8. Ice silk: easy to delaminate, harden
  9. Bamboo fiber : easy to break
  • From the consumer and commercial point of view, the difference between good fabric and general fabric is not so obvious, even general fabric clothing may sell more expensive than good fabric. But in the traditional luxury industry, any non-natural fabrics are not on the table. So the answer to the question is, unless it is 100% natural fiber fabric, any dimension has chemical fiber fabric is not too good. This is the same as in the traditional jewelry world, all semi-precious stones (including tourmaline and aquamarine) do not make it to the table because they are “semi-precious stones”.
    So why do you add 2% of other chemical fibers to cotton fabrics? It is to make up for some of the disadvantages of cotton fabrics. This has advantages and disadvantages, the advantage is to enjoy at a low price, either to achieve almost 80% of the feeling of quality fabrics, either to solve some of the small problems of daily wear. Negative disadvantage is that once you start to accept the taste is gradually bad. As an example, 24K gold, we all know the value, but soft, if replaced with 18K gold, hard, all happy, but also not worth it.
  • The price of fabric weaving can not speak from a single fabric, such as a designer if the leather and silk to do the splicing, then the two fabrics even if the original are not expensive, together it is very expensive, because the physical properties of these two fabrics are completely different, how to blend it is a very high degree of learning. For example, this, the style looks ordinary, but no one dares to underestimate the dress

Cotton and linen fabrics and knitted fabrics

  • Fabric differentiation of cotton and linen

Simple, the longer the velvet, the finer the velvet is good cotton, good air permeability, good gloss, can be made very thin, not easy to break, and good body feel. Generally speaking, the higher the S, the higher the gg, which is a good fabric, but it should not be too absolute.

  1. General fabric: short-staple cotton
  2. Good fabric: ordinary long-staple cotton, nominal sea island cotton, Pima cotton
  3. High-quality fabrics: Egyptian cotton, West Indian island cotton
  • S and gg

Often said two concepts: one called S, one called gg.Jiayan cashmere sweater manufacturer, can produce sweaters of 1.5gg-16gg.

  1. S refers to the thick thread of the yarn, such as 100S, also called 100 counts. The higher the S per unit area, the thinner the thread and the thinner the fabric. There are also double-strand single-strand, so I won’t say more. Why do they say that Egyptian cotton is good? Because of the high-count cotton, short-staple cotton cannot be woven at all.
  2. Gauge refers to the density of the fabric, Now American-style is generally called T, such as a bedding, called 200T.
  • Shirt fabric: Thomas Mason, England, Alumo, Switzerland, Monti, Italy, Leggiuno, Italy, Testa, Italy, Albini, Italy are all good fabric factories.
Source:https://www.thomasmason.co.uk/en/fabric/kennedy/
  • Summary of the characteristics of mulberry silk fabric: (only as clothing, not bedding)
  1. Plain crepe satin: conventional fabric, smooth, shrinking, can be used as shirts. Keep it well and not easy to wrinkle.
  2. Double crepe: uneven, good air permeability. Wear casually as a skirt, which is easy to wrinkle.
  3. Single crepe: thicker than double crepe, rough twill, large shrinkage, easy to wrinkle when worn as a skirt.
  4. Twill: Nicht sehr angenehm zu tragen, dünn.
  5. Georgette: Easy to hook silk, it’s useless except for making scarves
  6. Double palace silk: rough, tight and crisp, light and soft, with pimple patterns, good for evening dresses and shirts, not easy to wrinkle.
  7. Taffeta: suitable for evening dresses, not easy to wrinkle.
  8. Jacquard silk: Can only be used as outerwear, it is uncomfortable to wear next to the body.
  9. heavy-weight mulberry: not easy to wrinkle.16mm is already very good. Hermes’ silk scarves are above 22mm.
Hermes' silk scarves
Source:https://realstyle.therealreal.com/hermes-scarf-silk-motif-real-authentic-heritage/
  • Flax

One of the best fabrics in summer, breathable, thick, but wrinkled

Wool cashmere fabric

  • In the same situation, the warmth of cashmere is 8 times that of cashmere, but its weight is 1/5 of wool. Because of the influence of living environment, the colder the place, the better the cashmere. The quality of cashmere and wool fabrics is generally calculated by S (that is, the fineness of the fiber, the finer the more expensive the better). Many people think that wearing a wool coat in winter is uncomfortable because the woolen coat is heavy.That’s because they are made of the worst wool. The worsted sheep (fleece) coat is not heavy at all, it is really thin and warm. The Jiayan sweater factory makes only 0.4 kilograms of cashmere cardigan, all of which are ethically sourced cashmere. Once again, you have to know that wool and cashmere fabrics also speak S.
  1. Low-grade: less than 50% wool content
  2. Middle and low grade: wool content 50%-95%
  3. Medium and high-end: pure wool fabric with more than 95% wool content, 100S—120S
  4. Luxury: less than 120S-180S, wool over 100S is close to cashmere
  5. Top luxury: pure wool fabric higher than 180S

Merino wool is the wool closest to cashmere. The diameter of a human hair is about 75 microns, while cashmere generally starts at 17 microns (high-quality cashmere should be at least 15 microns). The diameter of merino wool can reach about 20 microns, which has similar effects, but the output is definitely larger than cashmere. Therefore, merino wool can be used as a substitute for entry-level cashmere to some extent.

  • Ways to pay attention to buying wool and cashmere:
  1. Cashmere that cannot be washed is not good cashmere.
  2. The better the cashmere (wool) fabric, the more primitive and plain the color must be
  3. Don’t blindly look at S, the fabrics of big factories have done a good job in the post-processing
  4. Look at the label of the cashmere sweaters , the ones marked 24/s 26s/2, 28s/2 are woolen, and the higher ones are worsted, such as 48s/2 60/s 120/s
  5. The gauge of cashmere sweaters is different from the gauge of fabrics. Simply put, 7gg9gg cashmere sweaters are thick. 12gg-16gg is not thick enough.
  6. If you wear a cashmere sweater for a day, you should lay it flat and let it rest for a day. In this way, the fibers stretched by gravity can slowly bounce back by themselves.

 

Source:https://www.zhihu.com/question/20931360/answer/18710149

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